Taking Care Of Your Kitten & Cat

Keeping your Feline Inside: Keeping your kitten indoors is not cruel, provided they are included in family life and given regular interaction, toys, and play sessions to keep them mentally stimulated. If no one is home during the day and your kitten seems bored or lonely, the company of another kitten may help. Living indoors protects your new family member from cars, dog attacks, baiting, and other outdoor dangers, while also helping to protect wildlife. If you have an outdoor enclosure, make sure it is secure and safe from snakes and dog access.

 

Feeding: Your kitten has been weaned onto Royal Canin Kitten dry food and Royal Canin pouches, and we strongly recommend keeping them on a proven diet. At this age, we feed two meals a day and also leave out the recommended daily amount of Royal Canin Kitten dry food. We do not recommend supermarket pet food, as the high preservative levels in some raw pet meats can make kittens seriously unwell. I prefer a balanced, complete super-premium commercial diet such as Royal Canin. Feeding guidelines are provided on the pack. Never give cooked meat with small bones, such as chicken, as the bones can splinter and cause injury to the mouth or throat. Changing your kitten’s diet at the time of rehoming may upset their digestive system. Always provide fresh water, and consider a cat water fountain, as many cats prefer moving water. Later when your kitten has settled you may try your kitten on strips of raw beef to chew on.

 

Claws and Teeth: Teething usually begins between 4 and 5 months of age. During this time, watch for tummy upset or diarrhoea and offer a safe item to chew, such as a cardboard carton. If stomach upset occurs, switch your kitten to a suitable gastrointestinal diet, such as Royal Canin Gastrointestinal, or to a bland diet for a few days, for example minced steamed chicken.
Your kitten will also need regular claw trims and an appropriate scratching post to help protect your furniture. The post should be sturdy and tall enough for an adult cat to stretch up fully. Cats generally prefer solid posts covered in real carpet.
It is also important to check your cat’s teeth regularly. Red, inflamed gums can carry a heavy bacterial load, which may affect the kidneys and possibly the heart if left untreated.

 

Vaccinations: Please check the vet card or certificate provided for your kitten’s booster dates for feline respiratory disease (flu) and feline enteritis (feline panleukopenia). For the best immunity, your kitten needs two F3 vaccinations after 10 weeks of age and will already have received at least one of them. If your vet recommends a third kitten vaccination, I ask that you decline, as there is anecdotal concern that over-vaccination may contribute to illness.  After the kitten course is complete, the first annual booster at 16 months is recommended. Following that an annual health check and vaccination every 3 years is recommended. You can also request a titre test to determine antibody levels rather than routinely vaccinating.

Please ensure your kitten receives the same type of vaccine (killed F3)  listed on the vaccination card sticker, and not the inactivated multivalent F4 or F5 vaccines. Some vets may also suggest vaccination against chlamydia, which usually involves two extra doses, but I do not consider this necessary for an indoor cat. I also do not recommend leukemia or FIV vaccination at this stage, as your kitten will not be exposed to outside cats. Please note that vaccinating against these instructions voids my health guarantee.

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Other Health Considerations. If you already have another cat that has lived outdoors, come from a shelter, or mixed with cats of unknown status, I recommend confirming that cat’s leukemia and FIV status before bringing your new kitten home. My cattery is leukemia- and FIV-tested and negative. Many outdoor strays are positive for these diseases and your cat coming into contact with them can mean a fatal illness for your cat. 

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Fleas, worms and other pests: Because your cat will live indoors, fleas should be uncommon, however you can still track flea eggs inside on your shoes.. Use a quality worming product, rather than a supermarket brand. You can discuss with your vet which product is suitable for your conditions. In my cattery, I use Profender because it treats several parasites in one simple monthly application without needing to put your fingers in the cat’s mouth. Revolution spot-on can also help control fleas, worms, and ear mites. Fleas may transmit worms and can also carry Bartonella, which may contribute to heart problems.

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In the Litter Box: Your kitten has been trained to use a variety of litters. We use Golden Yolk Chicken Pellets in a standard litter tray and later a top opening litter tray. Our cats also use a Litter Robot 4 and a Catlink automated litter tray, and automated systems have been a great help in our home.

Keep the litter tray clean, as cats have a very sensitive sense of smell and prefer a fresh toilet area. Avoid silica litter, as the dust is not ideal for kitten lungs. Place trays where your kitten can reach them easily, especially at night, and do not expect them to travel far, such as downstairs, to use one. If you change litter brands, expect a short adjustment period while your kitten becomes used to the new texture and smell.

Completely change the litter at least weekly, then wash, disinfect, and rinse the tray thoroughly before refilling it. Household bleach can be used if it is rinsed away well. Take care with all cleaning products around cats, as their skin is sensitive. Do not use disinfectants such as Pine O Clean, as pine oil and other phenol-based products are toxic to cats.

Resident cats may quietly “stalk” a new cat around the litter tray, which can make the newcomer feel unsafe and lead them to toilet elsewhere. A good rule is to have one more litter tray than the number of cats in the home. In larger homes, provide easy access to trays on each level and in the main living areas.

Daily cleaning is essential for both hygiene and litter habits. Scoop solids and clumps every day, and remember that a dirty tray can discourage even a well-trained cat from using it. For cats without access to an automated litter box, we use deep, top-entry trays that allow plenty of digging without litter spilling over the sides.

Some cats are also very sensitive to the air quality around their litter area. If the space smells strong to you, it will smell even stronger to them. Because cats are sensitive to both the smell and feel of litter, we recommend using the same litter your kitten already knows for at least the first eight weeks after arriving in your home. This helps them feel secure while settling in. If you decide to change litters later, do so gradually.

If your kitten rejects a new litter, switch back straight away to the original one to avoid creating poor litter habits. When accidents do happen, they are often in “scent attractor” areas that strongly smell of you.

Common accident-prone areas include:

• beds, because they carry your scent even when freshly made

• dirty laundry or laundry baskets, which smell strongly of skin, perfume, and cologne

• couches and other favourite sitting areas that hold your scent

For the first few weeks, it can help to keep bedroom doors closed and laundry out of reach in a closed hamper. If your kitten has an accident, reduce their access to the home straight away by closing doors and limiting their roaming area. Keep that restriction in place for about a week before gradually giving them more freedom again. If accidents have been happening for several weeks, retraining is likely to take much longer.

If your kitten had been using the tray reliably and then starts having accidents, the most common causes are a dirty litter box or too much freedom too soon. Scoop solids and wet clumps every day, fully replace the litter weekly, and sterilise the tray before refilling it. If cleanliness is not the issue, reduce your kitten’s access again so they can rebuild good habits in a smaller area. It usually takes much longer to correct a learned behaviour than to establish it in the first place.

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Play Time: Your kitten needs interactive play and companionship to stimulate their mind, exercise their body, and strengthen their bond with you. Other pets in the home can also become valued playmates. Never use your fingers or toes as play bait, even if it seems harmless while your kitten is small, as this can teach them to pounce on and bite people as they grow. Always use toys instead.

If your kitten becomes overexcited and starts pouncing or chewing on you, end the play session and walk away. For a particularly persistent kitten, a short time-out with safe toys can help them calm down. Do not allow rough play from the beginning. Unlike dogs, cats may find pushing away or physical reprimands exciting, which can encourage the behaviour instead of stopping it.

To keep your kitten interested, rotate their toys regularly. A simple approach is to have three sets of toys and swap them every few days so familiar toys feel new again.

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Handling: Kittens are delicate, especially compared with puppies, so children need clear guidance when handling them. When children are learning, have them sit on the floor so the kitten cannot be dropped from a height if it wriggles away. Show them how to hold the kitten gently without squeezing. Young kittens may not release their claws easily from clothing, blankets, or skin, so teach children to lift the paw slightly forward to unhook the claw rather than pulling the kitten away. Keeping claws trimmed is also important, and I, your vet, or a vet nurse can show you how.

Handle your kitten regularly when they are awake, so they remain comfortable with being carried, touched, and gently examined. This early desensitisation helps with nail trims, vet checks, ear cleaning, and medication later. If your kitten struggles to get away, do not immediately put them down, as this can teach them that kicking or wriggling leads to release. Instead, use a calming technique such as clipnosis, wait for them to relax, and then set them down. This encourages calm behaviour rather than resistance. Choose your timing carefully: handling practice works best after your kitten has had a play session and is ready to settle, not when they have just woken up full of energy.

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Nap Time: Kittens, like babies, need frequent naps throughout the day to support healthy growth and development. Stressed and tired kittens can become unwell. If your kitten is asleep, let them rest and teach children not to wake them. A tired kitten can become irritable and less enjoyable to handle or play with. Make sure your kitten has a quiet, easy-to-reach place to sleep away from young children and energetic dogs. In a busy or noisy home, it may help to give them a calm space away from the main living areas where they can rest undisturbed. A tall cat tree with a covered bed can also make an ideal nap spot.

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Things that kill: Many common household substances are highly toxic to kittens and can also make adult cats seriously ill. These include certain plants and flowers, reed diffusers, essential oils, human medications, moth balls and antibacterial hand wash. A cat may become very unwell simply by getting these substances on their fur and then grooming them off. Some chemicals are especially appealing to cats, which increases the risk of poisoning. To help prevent accidental exposure, keep all chemicals securely out of reach, including antifreeze, bleach, detergents, de-icing salts, dog flea and tick treatments, fertilisers, herbicides, rodent bait, and insecticides such as mothballs. You have also been given information about poisonous plants, especially lilies, which can cause organ failure.

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Congenital vs Hereditary Genetic defects: As a responsible breeder, I aim not to breed from cats with known hereditary genetic defects. These are conditions passed from parent to offspring through inherited genes. In our breeds, polycystic kidney disease and hypokalaemia are hereditary conditions that can be DNA tested for. Our cats are clear by ancestry of all DNA-testable diseases relevant to the breed.

Some conditions do not yet have DNA tests, so although we breed with care and awareness, it is not always possible to know whether a cat may carry a hereditary defect. If a kitten later develops such a condition, we would appreciate being informed so we can review our breeding program. Congenital defects are different: they arise during pregnancy and are not caused by inherited genes. Some are visible early, while others may not become apparent until months or even years later. As a breeder, I cannot always know if something has gone wrong in utero when a kitten appears healthy and develops normally before leaving at around 14 weeks. For this reason, all purchasers are offered 30 days of complimentary pet health insurance. After that, it is the owner’s responsibility to maintain cover or accept the risks of having an uninsured pet. I do not pay veterinary expenses for cats that are not part of my breeding program. As vet bills continue to rise, insurance is an essential part of responsible pet ownership and can help avoid situations where treatment decisions are limited by cost.

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Heart Issues: Heart conditions can occur in cats in many forms, from valve abnormalities to hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM). Some issues may be picked up during kitten health checks, including heart murmurs You will have been advised if a heart murmur is diagnosed in your kitten.  Juvenile murmurs are not always a sign of serious disease and are often outgrown, but some cardiac conditions cannot be detected until later. HCM can be unpredictable. Some cats develop it young and live long lives with treatment, while others are affected more severely. If it is identified early, medication may help manage the condition.

 

HCM is complex.

• It is not always genetic.

• It is not always as simple as removing one line from a breeding program.

• Scanning alone cannot prevent it from occurring in a breeding program

• No breeder can guarantee that a kitten will never develop HCM.

 

Heart screening in breeding cats is a valuable tool, but it is only a snapshot in time, not a guarantee of lifelong results. A cat may scan clear for years and still show signs of HCM later in life, even after producing offspring. Likewise, having a pet from a cat diagnosed with HCM does not mean that kitten will automatically develop the condition. Some may, and some may not.

Breeders can only control so much. HCM is one of the most commonly diagnosed heart conditions in cats, and open discussion should not be mistaken for poor breeding practice. Transparency about the issue reflects honesty, not fault.

As of 27 May 2026, we have scanned three generations of Mandalays.  Burmillas have not traditionally been considered a high-risk breed, however we will begin scanning Burmillas as well. We are doing what we can to reduce the risk of heart disease and the distress it causes owners, but we cannot guarantee that a cat will never develop a cardiac condition during its lifetime.

​A basic explanation of HCM - https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/cornell-feline-health-center/health-information/feline-health-topics/hypertrophic-cardiomyopathy.  If I advise you in the future that one of your kittens parents or siblings has been diagnosed with HCM then it is  recommended your kitten receive a heart scan at 12 months of age to determine early if there is any heart issue developing. Early detection and treatment can lengthen life span. 

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Dental Health​: Maintaining your cat’s teeth and gums is an important part of their overall health.

Wash your cat’s food and water bowls regularly with hot, soapy water to remove biofilm, the slimy coating that can build up on the surface.

Have your cat’s teeth checked regularly for early signs of dental disease, as well as loose or broken teeth. Bacterial build-up in the mouth can affect the kidneys and may also contribute to heart problems. Cats often hide signs of pain, so by the time you notice drooling or reduced appetite, the problem may already be advanced. In severe cases, treatment may involve extraction of all teeth or other dental therapies. In adulthood, tartar-control diets such as Royal Canin Oral Care can be helpful. Daily dental gels may also support ongoing oral hygiene. You can also try brushing your cat’s teeth with a toothpaste made specifically for cats, although some cats may not tolerate it well. There are also some new chews that are very helpful in maintaining dental hygiene such as Silvervine dental sticks. Be advised that juvenile gingivitis can happen. Your kitten has not exhibited any symptoms of Calici Virus, accordingly with appropriate care your kitten should not suffer Gingivitis or Stomatitis in adulthood. However the barbaric practice of removing teeth to reduce inflammation is on the way out and information on the new treatments such as Gingipro is available. 

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Conditions of Sale

 

Health at the time of sale: Your kitten or cat has been vet checked before sale and found to be in good health at that time. A separate vet check within 72 hours after arrival with your own vet is required to set a baseline for Insurance and to reassure yourself you have been sent a healthy kitten and to set a health baseline for your pet insurance.  Having a clearance visit for your kitten upon arrival removes the opportunity for an Insurance company to claim your kitten has a "pre-existing condition" Meeting the Vet for the first time under the duress of illness is never a good idea.

 

Insurance: You will be offered 30 days of Trupanion complimentary cover with immediate protection. This must be generated by you within 24 hours of the kitten leaving me or it will lapse leaving your kitten without protection. If you choose to arrange a different policy during this period, please review the waiting periods and exclusions carefully.

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Guarantee: I, the Breeder have taken all reasonable steps to produce healthy kittens, including appropriate veterinary care, health screening of breeding cats where applicable, and proper husbandry practices. However, no breeder can guarantee that a kitten will remain free from all illnesses, injuries, congenital conditions, or health issues throughout its lifetime. Cats, like all living beings, may develop medical conditions due to a combination of genetic, environmental, infectious, nutritional, accidental, or other factors that may not be predictable or preventable. Accordingly, the Breeder is not responsible for every health issue that may occur during the kitten's life, except as specifically provided for under my written health guarantee. 

 

Should your Miamber or Blackglama cat purchased directly from us be diagnosed with a proven and fatal Congenital or Genetic disease within 2 years from the date of birth you will be offered a replacement cat of comparable quality or a refund of the purchase price paid at the time, minus the non-refundable holding fee. The choice of replacement or refund is entirely at the discretion of the breeder. A replacement of refund will occur ONLY if the required supporting information is provided as proof of cause of death. This includes

 

 

• written confirmation of the condition and any treatment provided.

• your cat’s veterinary records, forwarded to my vet for a second opinion.

• In the case of a heart defect, an ECG carried out/read by a qualified Veterinary Cardiologist.

 

Exclusions: The guarantee excludes contagious viral/bacterial infections after the initial 72-hour period, accidental injury, and conditions caused by poor nutrition, neglect or infection. Timely veterinary attention is strongly recommended in the case of suspected illness as time can affect the outcome for your cat. Feline Infectious Peritonitis is not proven to be genetic and is now treatable but must be treated fast. The treatment is constantly evolving and many vets are not up to date with lifesaving protocols and treatments. Please feel free to contact me for information. 

 

Responsibility after collection : Once your kitten leaves my care, I am no longer responsible for routine health matters. I do not refund costs or accept liability for veterinary bills, as your kitten should be covered by pet insurance. I am also not responsible for viruses or bacterial infections your kitten may acquire after leaving me as cats and kittens can pick up infections in many environments. If you choose to test your kitten for any condition, any associated vet costs remain your responsibility. 

 

Support: If your cat develops a medical issue, please feel free to contact me. I am happy to offer support and, if needed, suggest a second opinion from any of the vets who are familiar with our breeding history and practices or a suitably qualified specialist. 

 

​Companionship: Many cats and kittens enjoy companionship from people, other cats, or even other pets. If your cat seems lonely and your attention is not enough, a suitable companion may help. Ongoing loneliness can contribute to boredom, destructive behaviour, and withdrawal. As with people, some cats are happiest when they have regular company. I strongly suggest if you are  introducing a new cat or kitten that the FeLV/FIV status be confirmed.

 

​Taking a Kitten or Cat into a Home with an Existing Cat:

Introducing a new kitten or cat to a resident cat takes time, patience, and a careful approach. This is a significant change for your resident cat. Keep their routine as consistent as possible and set aside daily one-to-one time so they continue to feel secure. 

Be patient and reassuring

• Progress can feel slow at first, but calm and consistent management usually helps. Give your resident cat extra reassurance and affection so they do not feel displaced during the adjustment period.

Set realistic expectations

• A successful introduction does not always mean the cats will become close companions. Some will bond, while others simply learn to live together peacefully with little interaction. The goal is not to force friendship, but to help both cats share the home safely and calmly. Cats are territorial and may need weeks or even months to adjust to a change in their home. Because first impressions matter, slow introductions give both cats the best chance of learning to coexist peacefully.

Set up a sanctuary room

• When your new cat arrives, keep them in a separate room with their own litter tray, bed, food, and water for about a week, or at least until they have been checked by your vet. This gives the new cat a safe space to settle in and helps prevent your resident cat from feeling immediately threatened. Cats usually prefer to avoid conflict, but in smaller homes they may have fewer opportunities to keep their distance. If tension begins to rise, step in early by calmly separating them before it develops into a fight. If one cat continues to intimidate or injure the other and there is no improvement after a month, long-term separation or rehoming may be the safest option.

Build positive associations through scent and feeding

• Feed the cats on opposite sides of the same closed door so they begin to associate each other’s presence with something positive. With each meal, gradually move the bowls closer to the door. Once both cats are eating calmly directly across from one another, open the door slightly for a few seconds so they can see each other while eating. You can also help them become familiar with each other’s scent by swapping their bedding overnight.

Allow safe exploration.

• When the new cat is relaxed, eating well, and using the litter tray consistently, place your resident cat in another room and let the new cat explore the house. This allows the new cat to experience the resident cat’s scent without direct contact and helps them become more confident in the new environment.

Begin short, supervised meetings.

• Keep the first face-to-face meetings brief and closely supervised. Some caution is normal, including crouching, hissing, or ears held back. The goal is to prevent repeated fearful or aggressive interactions, as these can become habits that are harder to change.

If tension increases

• Separate the cats and return to the previous step. If a fight breaks out, distract them with a towel tossed over them or a sudden loud noise. Guide the new cat back to the sanctuary room and allow both cats a few days to calm down. Do not hold either cat during introductions, as you may be scratched or bitten if one reacts aggressively.

Reinforce calm behaviour

• Continue with supervised interactions and watch for signs of tension, such as freezing, staring, or fixation. Keep treats or toys nearby so you can redirect attention and reward calm behaviour. This helps both cats learn that good things happen when the other cat is nearby.

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​Last, but not least!

I have devoted great care to breeding a healthy, happy, and well-adjusted cat, and I would never let one leave my home unless I was confident in its well being. The guidance I have provided is based on my knowledge and experience and is intended to give your cat the best possible start toward a long and healthy life. Please remember this is a commitment you are making for the life of the cat, whatever may come. However, every cat is a living being, not a mechanical object, and no breeder or vet can offer absolute guarantees. I love every cat I raise, and each one leaves with my sincere hope that I have bred a beautiful companion who will bring you joy, affection, and years of love. Enjoy your new family member.